Bologna's Food Valley: Parma, Modena and Emilia-Romagna
Where Parmesan, Parma ham, balsamic vinegar and ragu actually come from, and how to visit Bologna, Parma and Modena as one food-focused trip by train.
Orange spritz lemons on the vine and a terrace over the bay with local guides to all of Italy waiting below
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Where Parmesan, Parma ham, balsamic vinegar and ragu actually come from, and how to visit Bologna, Parma and Modena as one food-focused trip by train.
When the white truffle season runs in Alba, how a real truffle hunt with a dog and a trifulau actually works, and how to build a Piedmont trip around it.
Planning one week in Italy? Here are three routes that actually work, Rome with Florence, Venice with the north, or Naples and the Amalfi Coast, and why three cities in seven days wastes a day.
A whole district of conical stone houses: what trulli actually are, why they were built without mortar, how long the town takes, and where to see them without the crowd.
Timed entry, limited release and a lot of resellers: what the standard Colosseum ticket includes, what the arena floor and underground add, and how to avoid paying twice for the same thing.
Where a car is essential in Italy and where it is a mistake: motorway tolls, the autostrada driving culture, mountain and coast roads, fuel, parking colours and the paperwork you need.
Spring (April to June) and September to October are the sweet spots: pleasant weather, golden light and reasonable crowds. July and August are hot and busy on the coast, while winter is great for the cities and lower prices.
A week is enough for Rome, Florence and Venice on the high-speed train. Ten to twelve days lets you add the Amalfi Coast or slow down in Tuscany without rushing.
In the big cities no, the trains are fast and the ZTL zones make driving in the centre a headache. For Tuscany, the Amalfi Coast, Puglia and Sicily a rental car opens up the villages and views at your own pace.
ZTL zones are limited-traffic areas in city centres, marked by a white sign with a red circle and filmed automatically. Do not drive into them, park outside the centre, and check your hotel is authorised if it sits inside the zone.
Every region has its own signature: cacio e pepe in Rome, bistecca and Chianti in Tuscany, cicchetti and Prosecco in Venice, pizza in Naples and street food in Palermo. Our food and wine guides point you to the markets, trattorias and enotecas that locals actually use.
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